and B -an easier/shorter Garden Walk in the canyon itself which finished early enough to allow Jason to take some participants to the helicopter area for an extra-cost flight.
This KINGS CANYON 1 day visit returns to Yulara late afternoon.
7 - next morning, get up at a normal time (at last!), pack and wait for the free airport shuttle, hoping your flight hasn't been cancelled (mine was, the first in years they told me - duh! Note: the incoming flight a week before had been postponed 3 hours. Not looking real good, Jetstar).
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Note the above's what I'd do as a cash-down single aged male wanting to visit the area. Of course it's horses for courses - sooner or later rental car prices are going to return to more reasonable levels which may make my bus transport suggestions not the best option. Also people doing the big trip in their own van or rig will organise differently. But no way would I drive all the way from the capital cities (except maybe Adelaide) soley to visit the area. As part of a big trip - okay.
Not sure about travelers out of Alice Springs - I know there are 1/2/3 day guided tours out of the Alice into the area but it's a hell of a distance (Uluru 468km each way; over 300 to King's Canyon) - you do the figuring as to if you should do it.
The final big question. IS IT WORTH IT?
Look, there are equal gorges, valleys, mountains, sights and treks much closer to home eg Sydney has them all nearby in the Blue Mountains. Compared to overseas nothing in the red center blew me away like the Grand Canyon or the Yosemite landscapes, or even Spain's higher areas.
But face it, Uluru, Kata Tjuta and King's Canyon are ICONIC and should be seen by all Australians and as many visitors as possible - so if you can afford it, do it.
** ** MY TRIP
DAY ONE - FRIDAY
Sydney airport was a circus - check-in lines starting near the door - flight delayed 3 hours which was just as well because it took 3 hours to get to the counter.
Trip itself pretty good, free coach waiting to transfer 5km to accommodation.
Campground check in pretty quick (can vary according to RV arrivals), Check-in office had a few campy and touristy things for sale/the nearby SHELL much better. Outside check-in office was a food truck with exxy coffee and food - once again the SHELL was much better.
The campsite is huge with abt a dozen un-powered tent regions, half this number of powered tent areas, at least 10 shower/toilet blocks, lotsa pay BBQs, and space for several hundred RVs. I found the largely indigenous staff kept the place in good order. Security seemed good with several after dark police cruise-thrus in a spotlight-toting ute.
Chez Tezza yellow-blue tent rear left, from camp kitchen - good spot with shower block only 10m further left of tent. More grass than red dirt. Hardy crowded. Only problem with location - abt a 5min walk to laundry block/clothes lines.
BTW I found tent life no improvement from the Cairns trip a few weeks before - stiffness with my 2 new knees and loss of balance make the low tent's entry and in-tent activities very difficult. A higher tent would help but at almost 77 I ain't doing that. I figure I have done my last camping trip. Future holidays will be guided cruise-liner jaunts - with LADY TEZZA guiding me from cabin to buffet.
Camp kitchen was spacious, never seemed crowded, had plenty of seating and table space outside this shot. Had microwave and several pay BBQs. No stove. Good hot water and kept clean by conscientious staff who also did a great job at the shower/toilet blocks. However no jug or kettle, only one wash up area (which could be dominated for over half an hour by an RV owner doing the big weekly wash up) and the 2 crowded fridges were always packed to the rafters. Another camp patron told me there was a second much smaller camp kitchen, but I couldn't find it. Thing is one and a bit camp kitchens is way insufficient for a park of this size. Dunno what it is like peak season (the cooler months).
Campground had a pool - popular in the hotter afternoons of Spring although the kids told me the water was cold.
DAY 2 - SATURDAY(first full day in the area)
ULURU SUNRISE AND KATA TJUTA TREK
With no car I needed a bus, and I figured a guided tour would give me information about both places from experts. AAT KINGS seemed to have the only morning departure which covered BOTH Uluru and Tata Tjuta so I went for it.
Results were mixed. This had to be one of the few cloudy mornings in recent times so the Uluru sunrise had....no sunrise!
Bit cloudy. The rock is abt 25km by road south of Yulara. The sunrise viewing area is abt 5 km from the rock. Colouring comes from iron oxide dust which changes shade with the incidence of light. Note semi-arid landscape. Early mornings in Spring range from mild to quite cold - most of mine were mild but one 3am got down to 5degrees - I was snug as a bug in my cold weather sleeeping bag.
Late spring and early autumn days (peak times at Uluru) can get real hot so carry plenty of water. I'm also told the bush flies become unbearable - apparently local merchants stock up big on face-nets. I pack some eucalyptus oil, one of those marvelous does-everything products including acting as an insecticide - gotta admit when I splashed a bit across my face the flies didn't bother me. But they were not real bad to start with. Downside - had to fight off all these desperate and dateless divorcees - that stuff smells real nice.
AAT's expert commentary on the geology, history and general features of the area was excellent.
And I really enjoyed the WALPA GORGE trek. This almost 3km/2 hour return hike is not real difficult in gradient and should not worry people of average fitness. Underfoot, the weathered conglomerate made for some tricky sections with my new knees which are still stiff and affect my balance. Nevertheless, despite the guide's cracking pace I managed to arrive at the turnaround point not far behind.
NOTE for keen trekkers: AAT - KINGS does the other main (and tougher) KT trek (VALLEY OF THE WINDS) on its afternoon tour. But I'm told the guide turns around at the second viewpoint and does not do the full circuit.
Turnaround for WALPA GORGE trek. Some keen trekkers climb to highest point, despite warning signs.
Weathered conglomerate can be tricky underfoot for gimps like me.
AAT got me back to Yulara before lunch, giving plenty of time after munchies to catch the resort shuttle around to Town Square to shop the IGA and check the scene.
That night it rained quite steadily. Unlike the last rainy night a few years back the tent didn't leak (the over-tarp I rigged up from a $4 Bunnings' tarp worked a treat) but condensation in such a small area made for a miserable night. Small tents, wet nights and condensation are keen bedfellows.
DAY 3 - SUNDAY (2nd full day in the area)
HOP ON/HOP OFF BUS TO ULURU.
This outfit's website asked not to book the popular SUNRISE or SUNSET trips because of heavy patronage. Suggests to me they need more buses to cover demand. Anyway I got them to pick me up for their 2nd trip to Uluru at 8.35.
This delivered me to the Cultural Center at 9.25 after a circular bus tour of the rock with driver "SNAKEBITE"/ MICK proving every bit as good as the AAT people in explaining the geology, history and general features of the area. Plus he had a wicked sense of humour. This is why I suggest using the JO/JO BUS exclusively for Uluru/Kata Tjuta in my 4 day money saving itinerary up page.
I wasn't whelmed by the Cultural Center to the point where I took no pix. The 20min bushwalk to the nearest point of the rock was pretty boring too. That nearest point is MALA WATERHOLE.
MALA WATERHOLE is the site of the old rock climb. It can still be seen by the grey trail up the rock. I gotta admit it looks seriously steep despite helper chains back in the day. I'm glad they closed it because at almost 77 with 2 new knees I'm silly enough to climb it. Fitness wouldn't beat me (I'm so fit I got muscles on my boogers) but general stiffness and loss of balance would.
The side track into the waterhole and nearby KANTJU GORGE was relatively short.........but the smallness of the waterhole surprised me, given the previous night was pretty wet. However this one is permanent (must be spring-fed) which would have been a God-send to desert travelers back in the day.
I had enough time before the bus came back to start my circumnavigation of the rock (I planed to finish this on the 'morrow). Thing is, the full circumnavigation takes a bit longer than between buses unless you are Speedy Gonzales. So why not knock over 20% now?
The base walk across to MUTITJULU WATERHOLE had several fine views - this one better reflects last night's rain.
I got to MUTITJULU about 10 mins. before the 12.20 bus. Got back to the campground around 1300 - lotsa time for lunch and to hit the laundry. Around sunset I wandered across to the central dune IMALUNG VIEWPOINT.
Pretty good roll call for this secondary viewpoint which is much further away than the dedicated places within the park. KATA TJUTA over left shoulder.
KATA TJUTA from YULARA's mid circle dune viewpoint.
DAY 4 - MONDAY (the 3rd full day in the area).
- Back to ULURU to complete the base walk circumnavigation.
I caught the HO/HO BUS from the campsite bus stop at 11.50 for its 3rd run into the park. I got out at MUTITJULU WATERHOLE to continue my base walk of yesterday. I had abt 7.5km to do in 3 hours.
The base trail is flat and has a fair surface. These Segways are a great extra-cost way to do the circuit - a rider told me they are surprisingly easy to ride. Popular too were many rental bicycles. Trekkers? - I passed about a 100 trekkers in the 3 hours. Temps reached about 30C.
The spectacular scenery continued. This looks like indigenous art but in fact is the result of natural weathering of the sandstone.
I arrived at MALA WATERHOLE thus completing the circuit begun the day before in good time for the bus.
DAY 5 - TUESDAY (the 4th full day in the area)
AM - HOP ON/OFF BUS TO KATA TJUTA SUNRISE AND VALLEY OF THE WINDS TREK.
This was another the website said was booked out - the HO/HO girl at the tour center said "no problem" - what a champ! I was glad because I hadn't seen enough of THE OLGAS and really wanted to do the VALLEY OF THE WINDS.
Pre dawn crowd at the KATA TJUTA sunrise viewing platform. 30 mins earlier we had seen the most incredible meteorite. The best of my almost 77 years - pre-dawn lack of light in the desert helps.
THE OLGAS from the viewpoint.The sun is actually hitting the rocks - not as dramatic as Uluru. But way more rugged.
Behind us, the sun was rising behind ULURU. Fair bit of telephoto here - true size about 2/3 this.
The HO/HO BUS gives a choice between hiking easier WALPA GORGE or doing the longer more difficult VALLEY OF THE WINDS after the sunrise viewpoint. Having done WALPA with AAT - KINGS I naturally went for THE VALLEY.
This 8km/3hr return loop has some very steep and rough sections. Unfit people should give it a miss. People of normal fitness will need a few rests and may turnaround at one of the two intermediate viewpoints (actually AAP's afternoon guide turns EVERYONE around at the second viewpoint which is abt. 40% of the circuit. Admittedly they have already seen the best of the landscape). I've heard park rangers close the trail in temps exceeding 38C.
The HO/HO BUS has no guide and the driver does not accompany trekkers - he throws them out at the trailhead with trek instructions and to be back in 3.5 hours. He then takes less enthusiastic/capable trekkers across to WALPA. That trek is much shorter/easier and gives the driver time to return those hikers to YULARA before he comes back to pick up THE VALLEY trekkers.
I found THE VALLEY a real test. My new knees are fine for endurance, I have rebuilt my fitness but I messed up medication in the home rehab. stage so they are stiff and lack flexibility - which has affected my balance. Consequently I had to take the many rough/steep bits slower than days of old.
Near the start of THE VALLEY circuit. Many steep and rough bits on this trek.
Typical VALLEY OF THE WINDS landscape.
The bus arrived back to YULARA around mid-day. I got it to drop me at town square where I enjoyed an overpriced but yummy plate of chips and similar glass of beer at GHECKO'S CAFE, checked out the native art displayed by indigenous artists on the lawns, browsed the shops and then caught the free RESORT SHUTTLE around to the campground for more laundry work.
PM - Late afternoon I wandered out to the bus stop and waited for the HO/HO BUS to take me on its ULURU SUNSET trip.
No shortage of coaches and people at the sunset bus area. Non-bus viewing area across road. Best outlook from top of dune behind camera.
This trip returns to YULARA in plenty of time for dinner.
DAY 6 - WEDNESDAY
AAT-KINGS ONE DAY EXCURSION TO KINGS CANYON
I wasn't too sure about this. A mega-early start, over 700km and 8 hours in a bus with a real hard 3.5hour trek half way thru. But I was really determined to see KINGS CANYON and to trek it, so after alternative plans fell through, I went for it.
It turned out my favourite day.
The AAT coach picked me up at 4.35 AM at the campground bus stop. Guide ANNA and driver JASON were real pros - after giving a basic itinerary of the up trip they shut up and allowed us more sleep. I'm not a good sleeper in transport but after the previous several days of trekking I cut quite a few zzzzs.
Nor long after daybreak we reached KINGS CREEK STATION which is abt. 35km south of the canyon - these folk put on an inclusive buffet brekka which I thought pretty good after my non-cooked efforts in the campground "kitchen".
I checked the rest of the stop zone out because apparently you can camp. I think they have cabins too. (future trips? - nah, but at one stage I had planned to stay in the area).
Lots of touristy stuff for sale.
Arriving at the Canyon (this is abt. 5km off the main road) we split into 2 groups - one doing the tough RIM WALK (6km/3.5hr/rating 4), the second the easier CREEK WALK (shorter/rating 2). I was surprised when 3/4 of us opted for the killer.
This is the nightmare section. RIM WALK starts with 500 very steep, very rough stairs. Guide ANNA stopped at 200 to allow doubters to change minds and descend in time to meet JASON'S group. About 10 returned.I found fitness no problem, but with stiffness and loss of balance I took the stairs slower than back in the day. ANNA waited at the top - one of many stops where she explained the geology, flora, fauna or history or allowed time for pix. At no time did I think I was holding the group up. Sometimes I arrived mid-pack.
The walk gets easier at the top - average trekkers should have no problems. I still had to go a bit slow on the rougher sections.
JASON'S initial creek bed group from 200 steps.
ANNA gives us the drum. I found her an excellent communicator and a font of knowledge. She urged us to drink plenty of water on this 35degree day. I had a 2 liter bladder with mouthpiece-tube in my backpack from my 2015 10 hour trek in the GRAND CANYON on a similar day - I stick the mouthpiece over my shoulder and sip as needed - it proved excellent. The bus had plenty of water and electrolyte to replenish stocks.
Lower canyon from high on the north rim.
At about 60% of the trek the canyon narrows and after descending a bit you cross to the other side on a short metal bridge. These wooden stairs take you to the top of the southern rim - easy-peasy after the many more rough stone steps at the start. If you head left at the bottom of the stairs, a few minutes, an irregular trail gets you to the GARDEN OF EDEN WATERHOLE.
The GE WATERHOLE is permanent but no swimming - no matter; KINGS CANYON RESORT where we later have lunch has a pool. I have seen pix of a waterfall into this pool - must have been soon after heavy rain. No swimming but lotsa shade.
The narrow eastern end of the gorge - the GE WATERHOLE is down there somewhere.
The descent on the southern rim was more gradual (thank God!) and 3.5 hours from the start we reached the coach. JASON had returned from the creek walk in time to drive participants to the helicopter site were some chose an extra-cost overflight. Then it was onboard for the short run (6km out to the highway; turn right, go another 10km) to the lunch stop at KINGS CANYON RESORT.
KCR seems a better option for canyon visitors than our breakfast stop, KINGS CREEK STATION - it's bigger, has a much better dining room/bar and campground incl pool etc. We had an hour for lunch (we pay). I had a toasted sandwich and beer - the price while high was more reasonable than at AYERS ROCK RESORT.
The drive home seemed less than 4 hours - ANNA and JASON kept us entertained with facts about the history and characters of the area in between silent periods to allow us more shut-eye. We had 2 stops:
1 - MOUNT CONNOR
This ULURU look-alike is106 km west of YULARA. It's actually a mesa with lower areas protected from erosion by a hard cap of sandstone and is on the grounds of CURTAIN SPRINGS station (our next stop). You can do paid tours from there or YULARA. There is a dedicated viewing area beside the highway. Across the road is a sandhill viewpoint where to the north you can see part of LAKE AMADEUS, a salt lake which caused lots of grief to early explorers.
2 - CURTAIN SPRINGS WAYSIDE INN
Another 15km closer to YULARA, this roadhouse is the original homestead of the huge cattle station of CURTAIN SPRINGS -station and roadhouse developed by the SEVERIN FAMILY. We stopped for abt a half hour - I had a beer which I thought reasonably priced given the isolation. There are eats, drinks and touristy stuff to buy, pay showers and you can stay in pay cabins and the free campground (which is all red dirt - but hey, you can't complain about the price). Closeness to ULURU means plenty of RV people camp for free and drive in for a few days.
Back when I thought I could get a reasonably priced rental car I originally planned to spend a few nights here. COVID ruined everything.
It took the bus less than an hour to get me back to YULARA campground - late afternoon but in plenty of time for dinner.
THE BIG QUESTION:
Is KINGS CANYON better than ULARA/KATA TJUTA? Despite this claim from many I reckon it's about the same and certainly worth the long trip. But wouldn't travel to the red center to see it alone. Note travelers from ALICE can come by way of the WEST MCDONALD RANGES which have many touristy spots. You save many kms coming that way but will need a 4wd.
From Yulara, if you haven't your own transport, the AAT-KINGS daytrip is the way to do it.
Note without a bus you will need a car at the Canyon - there is no accommodation at the canyon, and KINGS CANYON RESORT is too far to walk.
AAT also run an exxy non-daytour bus YULARA to KCR, but I couldn't work out how to get to the canyon from there. I'm a world class hitcher btw - but scarce traffic and post COVID caution ruled that out.
THURSDAY - DAY 7
I woke exhausted. I figured I had trekked over 50kms (many on steep/rough trails) the previous 6 days and the cramped tent didn't help overnight recovery. Scoffers cut me a break - I'm a 77 yo cancer survivor, not as durable as back in the day. So I determined to make this a day of rest.
Well not quite - I did more laundry, checked the campsite's own viewpoint (not quite as good as the central IMALUNG VIEWPOINT but closer to my tent at 450m vs 850), then wandered across to the TOWN SQUARE via IMALUNG itself, for another plate of chips and a beer.
FRIDAY - DAY 8.
DRAMA - arrived at airport to find flight cancelled - missed 6am Jetstar email because I haven't a smart phone. "We never have flight cancellations" the town square tour office had assured me the day before. I guess there's always a first time.
Jetstar desk girl booked me onto tomorrow's flight - took 2 hours to find me accommodation - this in a town the bus driver back in reckoned had 4000 spare bed because the hotter days of Spring were already affecting bookings. Go figure.
My digs were in DESERT GARDENS, one of the flash AYERS ROCK RESORT hotels on the circle. Positives include a big room, clean, well equipped, effective climate control which kept room temp at 24C day and night, comfy twin king beds, nice pool (kids assured me water cold) a good associated free art gallery and film theater, 5 mins walk to Town Square and a largely indigenous staff which seemed to do everything well. I witnessed a staff act of kindness not seen in 60+years of hotel stays.
DESERT GARDENS room big enough.
Negatives include a mouse in the room (probably my fault: left the sliding door to the back courtyard open too long), slightly temperamental hot water, carpets near replacement, gardens which didn't sock me in the eye and nose-bleed prices (the room tariff was 2 or 3 times similar places in Sydney, Surfers or Cairns; the food prices blew my $30 Jetstar food allowance in one hit at dinner - the shredded-beef burger in the bistro cost $30 alone. Leaving zero for the $14 beer to wash it down). And zero for breakfast next morning. I found out the nice looking buffet breakfast cost $40 - well above my pension grade. The IGA which has cheaper stuff didn't open until 10.30 but luckily the SHELL with its less exxy food was only an 800m walk (the Resort Shuttle which passes by the SHELL doesn't start starts until 10.30).
I figure either Jetstar's food voucher policy was formulated when it started back in '03 when $30 would buy both dinner and breakfast at the COOLANGATTA GREENMOUNT.....or.....big boss ALAN JOYCE doesn't eat breakfast.
SATURDAY - DAY 9
YULARA airport was a circus with 2 hr queue to check in and a slow, mega-pedantic security check. Consequently we took off 10mins late, landed even later due to near airport air traffic. Sydney airport a similar circus - bags slow to start coming out and my bag last out.
Trip home a bit tricky - trackwork meant buses replaced trains the first 35 km to Waterfall but Central Station inundated with footy fans going to a night game so info was poor, and train from Waterfall stopped every station and didn't exceed 60kmh. Consequently I didn't get home until 11.45pm after dragging my bag 2km from the station (and I live in a very hilly town) - LADY TEZZA was away from home and I'm such a tight-wad I refused to order a taxi. I mean 2km is nothing compared to what I'd done the previous week or so.
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If somehow you come across this report ((like, it hasn't even been indexed yet) it should be finished in a few days.
Approaching Gili Trawangan, Lombok on Perama's direct boat from Bali
Taking it easy on Tioman Island, Malaysia
Cruising down Whitsunday Island
Cute church - Naxos
Beach, forest-clad medieval ruins and up-valley budget accommodation at Olympos in Turkey
Looking south to Tossa de Mar
NYC BEACHES
Trip reporter Rachael and Andy on Ko Muk
Yon Cassie has a lean and hungry look (image Deco Dermots)
Sammy BinLiner steps out to the hot-tub seminar in The Worry Collective
Sumo grand champion Hakuho.
Beach, forest-clad medieval ruins and up-valley budget accommodation at Olympos in Turkey
Trip reporter Rachael and Andy on Ko Muk
Yon Cassie has a lean and hungry look (image Deco Dermots)
Sammy BinLiner steps out to the hot-tub seminar in The Worry Collective
Sumo grand champion Hakuho.
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