last visited Sept 2019
Part of CAPE MAY'S beached coastline.
THE JERSEY SHORE
From what I can see New Jersey's Atlantic Coast is one continuous strip of sand. It stretches (abt140m/225km) from SANDY HOOK within sight of NYC to CAPE MAY just north of Delaware , interrupted many times by streams or by tidal exits from lagoons. In places this sand borders the mainland, at others it becomes a barrier beach on a slightly offshore barrier island with lagoons between them and the mainland. In some areas these lagoons seemed to have filled in - in others partially filled to leave coastal marshes and similar. Where near-beach land is solid or reclaimed there is quite a lot of settlement - there has to be several dozen beach towns along this strip, often a continuous conurbation for many miles. Look for LONG BRANCH, ASHBURY PARK. SEASIDE HEIGHTS, SURF CITY and others.
It's no mystery why the JERSEY SHORE is known as a bit of a summer playground. To do it justice a beach blogger would need a vehicle and multiple days to tour the shore - but now I'm in my 75th year I'm OVER such detailed inspection and reporting. There were many other places in the north-east I wanted to check in my limited time both trips (2018/19) - so I confined myself to 4 locations only, ATLANTIC CIT, VENTNOR/MARGATE, OCEAN CITY and CAPE MAY.
But if you want to read about all 44 beaches ranked by attractiveness along this strip, visit this great section of NJ.com.
ATLANTIC CITY
ATLANTIC CITY takes up the northern third of a former barrier island which now is semi-landlocked by marshes and swamps. The city is about 2/3rds down the JERSEY COAST from the north.
I have no idea what this former barrier island is called (since found out: ABSECON ISLAND) but as you can see ATLANTIC CITY shares it with a few other urban areas. The whole island is urbanised, including some reclaimed swampland/marshes.
AC occupies the northern 7x3km section. Interestingly the famous BOARDWALK extends the full coastal range of this image, ending to about 3 miles from the southern tip.....labels may be clearer if you can click-expand.
I have a tongue-in-cheek TRIPADVISOR review of the boardwalk HERE.
....to give some idea, it extends south past that arrow thru VENTNOR to MARGATE. Shot from adjacent BALLY'S CASINO (where I spent a night 2018 thanks to gambler-subsidised rooms - TRIPADVISOR report here) about 2 km from the northern end. Total length of boardwalk - 7miles/11km
Those high buildings far background are residential condos - the casino strip ends around that white building mid distance.
Note several of the coastal towns further south in NJ and to the north have their own boardwalks.
UPDATE - in 2019 I rented a bicycle and rode the full length of the boardwalk.
This is as far north as you will get (arrow) - the boardwalk follows the beach/Atlantic coast past the last beachside casino (OCEAN CASINO RESORT) and then does a slow 90 degree turn left to follow the ABSECON INLET west. After abt 800M you reach the end - actually the last 150M was being worked on when I called by.
THE SOUTH END
Abt 7m/11km south the boardwalk ends in what I'd call the southern end of VENTNOR CITY, where MARGATE CITY starts - it's still abt. 5km to the end of ABECON ISLAND ansd 3.5km to the bridge which leads across to PORK ISLAND and then (via another bridge) to OCEAN CITY on the next barrier island south.
STEEL PIER from my BALLY'S room. In 2018 I found a majority of pier attractions closed down after LABOR DAY.....
....however in 2019 just before LABOR DAY it was kicking on real well....
.... I just had to have a ride on the giant Ferris wheel....
....above the view south from the top.
Like CONEY ISLAND, I found the BOARDWALK at both before and after (above) LABOR DAY more popular than the beach. The usual attractions of food/drink, amusement parks and a whole bunch of merch sellers - the latter had excellent deals on clothing etc (I'm not sure if this was a permanent thing or simply an end of season sell-off). UPDATE - still some pretty good deals going before LD 2019.
Shuttles (locally called TRAMS) were running 3KM of the BOARDWALK between OCEAN CASINO RESORT (the most northern boardwalk casino) and the most southern; TROPICANA - push cart at right was also a popular mode of transport. This bottom-budget traveller walked. Well that was 2018 - in 2019 the old knee arthritis had got worse and I wanted to get to the northern end for the ABSECON LIGHTHOUSE, so I hailed one down....
....got a seat up front alongside the driver who kinda adopted me (had never heard of a budget traveller to AC staying in a hostel).
ABSECON LIGHTHOUSE
This worth-visiting attraction is now a couple of blocks inland - get off the trolley at the northern end (OCEAN CASINO RESORT) and head inland.
The lighthouse is surrounded by housing estates of a similar height, but soon becomes distinctive.
228 steps to the top - I took it as an exercise option: made it to the top non-stop. Won't comment about coming down - down steps are not real good for arthritic knees.
Views from the top worth it - this is to the north, shows ABSECON INLET - apparently back in the day many cargo ships moved thru here to the large coastal lagoon behind - in bad weather they would often foul on the rocky inlet, hence the lighthouse which in those years was inlet-side.
View south - housing condos and casinos. Those vacant blocks must be worth a fortune.
Downstairs is a museum, gift shop and admission area. This place is free with a modest charge to access the lighthouse tower itself. There are also organised tours with expert commentary available from here - I didn't have the time. Actually I could have spent more time (I did an hour) in the museum section which I found fascinating.
Dude at reception had great interpersonal skills - was a mine of information.
I checked under the boardwalk - no members of THE DRIFTERS crooning away down there.
THE BEACH 2018 - nothing to get excited about. Pretty typical of north-east beaches - sand could be more white or yellow, surf pretty rubbishy onshore (wind-wise) slop. Long and pretty featureless but at least here interrupted by the occasional pier of groyne. And also WIDE enough which the beaches of mid and northern LONG ISLAND were not.
Marked lack of beachgoers indicative people come to ATLANTIC CITY to gamble, not swim or sun. Or maybe it was the season - EARLY FALL - although conditions were sunny and not cold.
At least the gulls were still enjoying the sand. That's the famous STEEL PIER in background.
THE BEACH 2019
What a difference slightly under one year makes - this 2019 pic just before LABOR DAY saw way more people on the beach on a warm sunny day similar to the pic above this.
Not all was lost 2018- the LANDSHARK (shot from the STEEL PIER) attracted an okay crowd this fine early Saturday afternoon.
So did BALLY'S BEACH CLUB a few hundred meters to the left - live music helped.
Wouldn't be an American Beach without the usual list of DON'TS.
Land of the free?
I also spent a few nights at CITY HOUSE HOSTEL far end of background street only a few hundred meters from the boardwalk. My TRIPADVISOR report is here.
CHANGE 2019
ATLANTIC CITY HOUSE has relocated about 1km south to SOUTH TEXAS AVE - another of the access roads to the boardwalk. Advantage - it's much closer the beach (50m vs 300) Also it's in a less sketchy neighbourhood. Disadvantage - further from the bus station (10+mins vs 3+) although if you stay onboard GREYHOUND it does call in to the TROPICANA CASINO only 3 mins south). Not sure if other bus companies call in there - my price-leading favourite NEW JERSEY TRANSIT certainly doesn't.
There is now a back yard with a nice guest patio.
The place is bigger, but has no bigger kitchen area or more bathrooms. There is still no facility for guests to do their own laundry. It is under new management, but the new guy despite excellent people skills didn't seem on top of things as well as former boss SUSAN.
VENTNOR CITY AND MARGATE CITY BEACHES
These beaches are a continuation of ABSECON ISLAND's beach as it sweeps south of ATANTIC CITY (AC).
AC becomes VENTNOR CITY around JACKSON AVENUE which is just short of halfway down the island. VC becomes MARGATE CITY around FREDERICKSBURG AVENUE abt 2.5km further south (approx 65% down the island). The BOARDWALK ends at almost this point.
These beaches are pretty nice if you are one of those people who like long, wide barrier type beaches. They are a step up from AC beach in that the sand seems whiter (maybe less use), less cluttered (there are way fewer piers and groynes), and the area behind is backed by housing and condos, not high rise casinos/fun fairs/touristy retailing (actually the casinos etc end abrubtly in AC once south of the TROPICANA. The boardwalk casinos stretch only 3km from OCEAN CASINO RESORT to the TROPICANA. This is the route of the boardwalk trams.
Typical boardwalk backing in VENTNOR CITY and southern AC
VENTNOR CITY BEACH looking north towards the AC casinos and higher beach condos from the VENTNOR CITY FISHING PIER. Long, wide, uncluttered with fairly nice sand. Uncrowded in this shot the day after the LABOUR DAY WEEKEND 2019 - sorry I couldn't get you a peak season shot for compaison, but my dance card the previous few days was full.
VC FISHING PIER is about half way down VC's 2.5km long beach. Note the outer half is closed to non-fishing club members. Structure sand end contains rest rooms and lifeguard facilities.
Blocked access plus signs typical of LAND OF THE FREE.
Beach south of the pier - the first km or so (say 650 yards) is still VC BEACH, past that it becomes MARGATE CITY BEACH (very similar to VC BEACH except there is no boardwalk backing the sand AND LUCEY THE ELEPHANT is along there - I didn't visit: seems a bit corny to even lowbrow me) which runs another 2km, after which it becomes LONGPORT BEACH for another 1600m. White arrow indicates LONGPORT SEAVIEW CONDOS only a few hundred meters from island end (may be clearer if you can click-expand image).
MARGATE CITY BEACH
....from adjacent the southern end of the boardwalk
OCEAN CITY
This is the next resort south of ATANTIC CITY - it's on the next barrier island which you can access via bridges from both the AC area and from the mainland.
I visited because I'd read it was voted USA's #1 family beach and the NJ coast's third best beach in absolute terms. The fact it was a pretty short bus ride from AC didn't hurt.
I haven't been able to find the name of the barrrier island OCEAN CITY is on - but it's immediately south of AC's ABSECON ISLAND, and is about the same length (11km), although a bit narrower. Like ABSECON it is fully covered by an urban area (although there is no shortage of parks etc) but the whole area is called OCEAN CITY, unlike ABSECON's AC, then VENTNOR CITY, then MARGATE CITY, then LONGPORT north to south.
OCEAN CITY ALSO HAS A BOARDWALK
Very similar to AC with fun fairs and touristy retailing/food. The busy zone is towards the northern end. Differences - no casinos, no places selling alcohol (OC is a dry town), and a marked lack of fortune tellers etc (they seemed over-represented in AC: don't tell me NJ residents go for that type of rubbish or can afford to blow money on a giggle experience). The boardwalk is somewhat shorter at 2.5m/4km.
When I arrived around 10.30 the boardwalk was over-run with bicycles including tandems and those family 6-seater buggies. However towards mid-day PA announcements warned cyclists to clear the boardwalk after 12.00, after which they could be fined. I later heard AC has the same deal, except it isn't enforced very well.
OCEAN CITY BEACH
More crowded than AC beach the day before - both fairly nice LABOR DAY LONG WEEKEND days - reflects the popularity of OCEAN BEACH as a family resort. The beach itself was similar in colour, was divided by frequent groynes and further south, piers - but not as wide. I read how this beach has been rebuilt at least half a dozen times in the past century following storm wave erosion.
Note high tide mark goes a fair way up the beach - would be fairly packed at full tide with a similar crowd.
This section is just past the northern end of the boardwalk - about 200m behind the camera in the previous pic.
No shortage of lifeguard towers along the beach - each section had a surf-rescue boat.
UM....I don't want to appear elitist but this sort of craft is early last century's answer to surf rescue - not very fast or able to handle rough surf. In Australia lifeguards would use RESCUE BOARDS (long fast surfboards with good floatation) in benign to medium conditons, and RUBBER DUCKIES (fast inflatable outboards) for rougher stuff. Sure they still have surf boats (much bigger and faster than above) but only for racing purposes. Similarly there are now RUBBER DUCKY surf races - can be quite entertaining when they hit an incoming wave head on at 60kmh.
BTW there is still room for the swimming lifeguard with patient floatation device in all surf conditions - and I notice both NJ and Australia use them.
WHOA!!!
Traditional Aussie surf boat racing can get spectacular too.
Where the boardwalk wasn't backed by touristy stuff, there were rather nice residential areas - I should imagine they aren't exactly inexpensive.
CAPE MAY
CAPE MAY is the southern most tip of the JERSEY coast. Past here DELAWARE BAY separates NJ from....um, tricky one here....DELAWARE!! Closest points are only 11mi/18km apart.
Straight line distance from Atlantic City is 39mi/63km -by road a few more.
The town and adjacent wetlands take up the bottom of the peninsula - the beaches have a much more southerly orientation than most of the JERSEY SHORE.
I concentrated on the TOWN BEACH above, which had a reasonable number of people on this nice mid September day. NOTE that my visit after LABOR DAY meant these people didn't have to pay the beach entry "tag" (fee). I have to admit there I have visited several hundred better beaches without entry fees.
The town beaches were the nicest I visited in the north-east. Nice and wide, sand fairly clean, and enough changes in direction with intervening groynes to give them some character compared to endless straight expanses further north. It helped greatly too that the more southerly orientation saw prevailing winds blow off the shore rather than onshore - resulting in way less choppy slop.
However there was a bit of swell around and the offshore wind helped smooth the face, resulting in some nice little waves. These dudes had the clues - all the other groynes had a least half a dozen surfers working them over.
BTW it is this section of coast where it is possible to see the sun rise over the sea in the morning and sink into the bay at night - at least in early fall. Not too sure about late June when it reaches its northern-most azimuth.
CAPE MAY is one of the oldest seaside resorts in the north-east and has many period pieces like those old buildings in background or the shade tents mid-ground left.
This is the beach immediately west of the TOWN BEACHES - I'll call it WILDERNESS BEACH because it is backed by the CAPE MAY WILDERNESS OR WETLANDS. As you can see it's pretty long - GOOGLE EARTH says 2.6km/1.6mi. Arrow background points to the famous CAPE MAY LIGHTHOUSE,
As you can see, this beach attracted a number of people and surfers close by in the corner because of the proximity of town. I only walked a few hundred meters along the sand and beach users dropped markedly.
BEACH SUM UP -even though the best I saw in the north-east I still would not rate CAPE MAY's in my top 1000. They were ABOVE AVERAGE by north-east standards (well at least the ones I saw) but VERY AVERAGE by world standards. Add the fact that in high season they have an ENTRY FEE and I'm beginning to think them very very average.
Nevertheless it was the best beach I saw of the few I saw in NJ (and the best of not many more more in the north-east) - I'm a bit chuffed the writers at NJ.com judged it their #1 of all 44 NJ beaches.
But CAPE MAY township is a different proposition - way further up on my list of surf towns. It is similar to my home town which is a fishing, surfing, holiday spot with some pretensions to history - so too is CAPE MAY (although the history stuff is more the real deal) but it would show the civic fathers in my town how things should be done. There seems more emphasis on preserving the fantastic old buildings and town central's WASHINGTON MALL would put my hometown's main drag to shame.
Old house buffs will get as much out of CAPE MAY as beach nerds like me.
3 blocks of WASHINTON ST have been converted into a MALL with lotsa cafes, bars, restaurants, antique shops, art galleries and other trendy touristy offerings. Not a bad crowd for FALL - I reckon it might be pretty congested high season.
In the interests of research, I had to grab a locally brewed at one of the street-side cafes and watch the passing parade. Research found the beer a step up over brand names and passers-by likewise compared to those on the ATLANTIC CITY BOARDWALK.
The northern end of the mall had this terrific old church where some local dude was making a big mistake.
Classy
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